Princess Colour Second Dress Fitting

Today I had my second fitting for Princess Colour. For this fitting I had only the base layer of top fabrics without any type of decoration so I could focus on fit and functionality. I'll admit I was nervous about this fitting, probably more so than any of the others. I was mostly worried about the fit because the two fabrics I had made the bodice out of were really stretchy and even though I had backed them in stayflex there was the worry that they wouldn't hold the shape of a 19th century bodice. I also wasn't entirely pleased with how the underskirt looked. I know that it is all going to be covered up and to just be happy with the colour but I was still worried. It all ended up working out and I was pleased with the final result.
Here is the dress before any alterations:

I think it's very apparent the things that needed to be fixed first. Both the hem on the skirt which is much too long and the neck-line on the bodice which is much too high. I will start with the bodice alterations.

The bodice neck-line was the first thing that needed to be altered. Unlike the toile fitting this neck-line sat rather high in comparison and stuck out in the middle because of the two centre front bones. My tutor suggested just making a dart where the CF piece and the Side Front pieces meet. This really helped the front lay flat and when the bones were taken out created a much more pleasing neck-line. This also made the straps more narrow. Comparing it to the design I didn't think this was a bad thing at all. I actually liked it better; and although the neck is a bit more rounded in the design that can all be filled out with the trim I will be applying to the neck. We could have also moved the sleeve over a bit but it was comfortable for Rose (model) and it sat at a nice place on her shoulder so that remained the same. The length of the sleeve was also okay with a little bit of gathering, I will probably use a drawstring for the final sleeve.

Front with Alterations

Close up of Front with Alterations

The back of the bodice also needed a few alterations. Unfortunately it didn't line up with my original Centre Back line. It was a bit too small in some places and I think I learned something very valuable about working with stretchy fabric like this. I didn't include the seam allowance when I cut out my stayflex and that was fine on all the other pieces except for the centre back. I should have stayflexed the 2inch seam allowance so that when I did the fitting I could get a really accurate line. Instead the fabric pulled a bit instead of staying straight so I will have to be careful when making the alterations to the back pieces. The other alteration in the back was to bring the seam of the skirt up more to sit higher on the bodice. This eliminates the little creases and the need for an extra bone in the side back piece.

Raised Skirt Line on Back

Moving on the the skirt. The only alteration on that I am happy to say was to bring it up to higher position; just a little bit longer than the hoop underneath. I've got plans for some trimming along the bottom just in case it shows as well and that way I can quickly machine the hem and cover it in lace. We also pined on a sample triangle piece I had from my toile fitting to compare the length and such. This was good because it gave me the length of the longest triangle as well.

Dress with Final Alterations

Side View with Final Alterations

Back View with Final Alterations

Evaluation:

I had a lot of nerves going into this fitting. I was concerned about my fabrics and the fit. Both ended up working really well and I am pleased with the result. Having the garment on a person really makes a massive difference to how everything looks and it was a positive difference in this case. My tutor had me first go around and make the changes I felt needed to be made. I think this was helpful and a good experience when I have to do it on my own after university. But I was also very thankful for her help. I did really try to give my opinion and my ideas and I felt I communicated better. This kind of analytical problem solving approach is a good mind-set to be in for a fitting and something I will remember in future fittings. I also felt more prepared with design things for this fitting. I had extra fabric for the sleeve and my laser cutting designs to show how I was going to progress and continue on with all my design ideas. I feel like this was a very positive fitting in that I made the appropriate alterations but also took more initiative in making the alterations myself (with a little help of course!).