Final Underwear Designs

Here are my finished underwear designs for both Princesses:

Intial Underwear Sketches

Princess Colour

Princess Silhouette

 Here are my sketches for the underwear based on my research. In my sketch I wanted to make sure I showed the progression of getting dressed and the different layers. I think these successful in conveying my ideas. I was able to show my tutor and I think a few elements might change, mostly the corsets. So these are by no means final sketches, which is why I haven't done Princess Silhouette in colour. However I think some elements will carry over into the final sketches, especially the colour palette which my tutor and I both like.

Final Corset Picks

I've finally decided on the final corsets I wanted to make. I feel like these final decisions are strong because they are based on shape, style and how they fit with the context of the character.

Princess Colour:

This was my original pick for her corset. It was late 19th century and a simple shape.


From the Met Museum Website. Date: 1871, A/N: 2009.300.3104 a-c

Salen, J. (2008). Corsets: Historic Patterns and Techniques. London: Batsford Ltd.

This is the corset I have decided to make for Princess Colour. It is still 19th century but a little earlier and a more interesting shape. I think this corset provides a different challenge from the one above. It does not have cut outs but instead has cording (something I have never done) and bust and hip inserts (something I also have never done). I think it will be an interesting challenge and a great portfolio piece. It also give me the chance to still do some decorative stitching and adorn with a little lace. I think this will also be good silhouette because it is a softer more feminine curve.

Princess Silhouette:

This was my original pick for Princess Silhouette's corset. It is oddly more like the corset I am now making for Princess colour. It is from the mid-19th century.




From the Met Museum Website. Date: 1839,  A/N: C.I. 38.23.10 b-d

 Kyoto Costume Institute (2002). Fashion: A History from the 18th Century to 20th Century. 

Hong Kong: Taschen.

Waugh, N. (1954) Corsets and Crinolines. Great Britain: Routledge/ Theatre Art Books.

I couldn't find one example of what I am making so the first image is one that I think is very close to what I am making and the second is the actual pattern I am using. This is quite a change from what I was originally planning on making, it is actually an entire century difference. Instead of 19th century this is an 18th century corset. Through talks with my tutor and working on character context I think this is a much better fit for Princess Silhouette. It will create a more dramatic shape but still fit in with the silhouette of the illustration. It also ties in with keeping this Princess on the more traditional side but still be very daring. The opulence of rococo fashion is something I might look into bringing in the dress and this corset ties in so well with that idea. 

Intial Underwear Ideas

To begin my research for the underwear I really wanted to find images of actual historical underwear and go from there. The illustrations really leaves room for interpretation and for the underwear it is even more vague. I really focused looking at corsets from the 19th century since that is an era I really want to work from. And for the chemise and bloomers I looked at things I liked to fit the design, and I knew I wanted an open cage and a hoop skirt so I was able to look for those as well.

Princess Colour: 

 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1871, A/N: 2009.300.3104 a-c

When I found this corset I immediately thought about making it for Princess Colour. I like the cut-outs and I think it would be challenging but beautiful in the end. It also gives me a see-though element and it would be juxtaposed nicely with the covered hoop skirt and relate to the open cage of Princess Silhouette. It is also towards the end of the 19th century which would be more towards a modern style, just like Princess Colour.

I feel like this corset is a really good variation on the above corset. You can kind of still see the triangle insert and the bone channels are still prominent. The sturdy backing would be easier to work with and it might be better for my model who would probably feel more covered in this version. It still gives me room to play with colour and dimension but does it's simple shape make it dramatic enough?

 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1898 A/N: 2009.300.3104 a-c.

 Intially this is what I was thinking for the chemise. It is from the 20's which I thought might be a nice contrast with the 19th century corset. Considering she is a princess of Nowhere having undergarments from different eras isn't unbelievable, but I also think something thin and immensly delicate would be get completely lost under a corset and hoop skirt.


  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1920, A/N: 1970.255.3





 This second chemise is more of what I am looking for. The simple shape is great and can easily be seen but under-stated under a bold corset. I really like the scalloped neck line, although the straps might be a bit thick. This chemise is from 1910 which is more from the time of the corset.


 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1910, A/N C.I.38.29.3

  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1870, A/N: C.I.50.23.3

 When I found this chemise I knew it was just what I was looking for for Princess Colour. It is a simple yet beautiful chemise. The lace detail is particularly appealing because should it ever show under the dress it would be a decorative element rather than something that would stand out. It would obviously need to be shortened but otherwise it would be a great style and shape. It is from 1870, which also ties in with a later era corset.

 

 Kyoto Costume Institute (2002) Fashion: A History from 18th Century 

to 20th Century. Hong Kong: Taschen

I unfortunately didn't have much luck finding images for the hoop skirt. I think this is a decent photograph. My hoop will be much shorter and not nearly as wide as the last hoop on each. I can see the red one fitting the best if the solid part of the hoop was pulled up but these images are great for profile and to help understand the scale they were made for each person.

Princess Silhouette:

 I like the more dramatic shape of this corset. I think it works with keeping Princess Silhouette as more of a daring character. I also like the shiny silk print and the decorative lace around the top. It is however a later time than I was looking to make being from 1876 which falls more in line with the corsets I found for Princess Colour.

 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date:1876, 
              A/N: 2009.300.2723a-c

 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date:1839-41, A/N: C.I. 38.23.10b-d

This is still a 19th century corset but a bit earlier and completely different. I like the challenges this one poses, with the hip pieces and the decorative stitching. Unlike anything I've never made before it would enhance my portfolio and test my pattern making abilities. It has no see through elements so it could be paired with bloomers and contrast nicely with the open cage. I also think I could embellish it more if I wanted to like decorate the hip pieces.

 It was very easy to find many bloomers I liked. These are a very sweet with the small pattern and the ruffles at the bottom. I like the drawstring element however I think these might be a little too long for the costume over-all.

  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: Mid-19th Century, A/N: 1999.503.2






This is another pair that I think is very sweet. I like that they are shorter than the pair above and that the wide lace at the bottom is see through, adding a more risqué element. I can very easily see the pink ribbon turning into a black one and it fitting Princess Silhouette's over-all look.

 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1890's, A/N: C.I.40.123.6

  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1870's, A/N: C.I. 50.23.3

 This is my favourite pair of bloomers. I think there is a very whimsical element to them. The lightness of the fabric is very evident which is similar to the fabric I will use. I like the silky ribbons on the bottom and as the draw-string. I think the element of the lace at the bottom is what really attracts me. Again the lace cuff is a little risqué but the fact that is is almost climbing up the leg makes it daring, something Princess Silhouette most certainly would be with her underwear. 

 This is a great example of the open cage I want to make. It is a lovely shape and sits on the waist. I also think the length is really important and this one is correct. It may have few more hoops than I was looking to put in but it a great historical example.

 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1857, A/N: C.I.53.72.15

  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1858, A/N: C.I. 45.79.10

 These two hoops are spot on to what I want to make. The amount of hoops and the length is really great. I think it really produces the shape I am looking forward. I also like how industrial it looks which I think will definitely add character. It is a great garment to aspire to make and is unlike anything I have ever made so it will most certainly be a challenge.

Initial Research: Gathering Ideas

When I began my research I was really focused on getting some ideas. I know that I really would like to do two corsets and two under-structures; however they also have to create the silhouette from the illustration. I will not be making two identical sets of underwear for each girl. This is one half of my EMP and I want it to stretch my knowledge of construction and challenge me in design and finish. This is also a chance for me to really develop a range and expand my portfolio which is a consideration when making these decisions. When looking through silhouettes I found two kind of eras that have a similar shape to what I am looking for: about 1780-90 and 1835-50. I like that these are from two different centuries and obviously very different in fabric and some styling but I can see the similarities in how the waists are defined.

The 1780-90:

Arnold, J. (1964). Patterns of Fashion I: English Women's Dresses and 

Their Construction C. 1660-1860. Great Britain: MacMillan Publishers Ltd.

Kyoto Costume Institute. (2002). Fashion, A History From the 18^th 

Century to the 20^th Century: Volume II: the 20^th Century. China: Taschen.

 Kyoto Costume Institute. (2002). Fashion, A History From the 18^th 

Century to the 20^th Century: Volume II: the 20^th Century. China: Taschen.

Gainsborough, T. Mr and Mrs. William Hallett (‘The Morning Walk’). (1785). [Online Image]. Available at:

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/thomas-gainsborough-mr-and-mrs-william-hallett-the-morning-walk.

[Accessed on January 18^th, 2012].

I've always really enjoyed this kind of shift right at the end of the 18th century. Before this the silhouette extended to the side with the help of paniers but here it begins to shift to a softer, although still exaggerated, shape all around. Following this, and in great contrast, was the more natural silhouette of the Regency era. I think this silhouette easily fits in with the Princess because it is more full at the hips with a slim waist and an up-lifted bust. I also think these images are great references because they are often made of light fabrics, and remain looking soft which is something I want to try and capture in my costume. At this time there was a lot of padding with petticoats and sometime small padded pillows. I'm looking more into making cages for the under-structures so this might not be a period I use for the underwear. However when it comes to draping the actual dresses these could be excellent reference for seam lines and style lines.


The 1835-50:

Arnold, J. (1964). Patterns of Fashion I: English Women's Dresses and 

Their Construction C. 1660-1860. Great Britain: MacMillan Publishers Ltd.

Arnold, J. (1964). Patterns of Fashion I: English Women's Dresses and 

Their Construction C. 1660-1860. Great Britain: MacMillan Publishers Ltd.

Kyoto Costume Institute. (2002). Fashion, A History From the 18^th  

Century to the 20^th Century: Volume II: the 20^th Century. China: Taschen.

Still from The Young Victoria. (2009). [Online Image]. Available from: 

http://www.imdb.com/media/rm2810350336/tt0962736. [Accessed January 18^th 2012].

This little grouping shows a range from about 1835 to 1850. It shows many slight variations in style that really influenced the time. All of these looks are more than likely supported by petticoats again but could easily be seen with a hoop underneath. The silhouette for the Princess is easily seen in this period as well. Sometimes the waists can be a little high, like in the still from The Young Victoria, however it can also sit a little lower on the hip like the green dress above. I also like how young and playful I feel the costumes from this time look. I think it holds a sense of whimsy with just a little glimpse of the shoes. As according to the illustration my costumes will be shorter than this. I also think looking for a corset from around this time would be good, because I've never made a 19th century corset and could add a new range to my portfolio. This is another silhouette that would give me some good ideas for seams and design lines.

EMP Learning Agreement and Work Plan

In my Extended Major Project I will be challenging myself to work as a maker and a designer. I will be interpreting two illustrations by Sarah Gibb in the children’s book: The Princess Who Has No Kingdom; one is the Princess and the other is the same character in silhouette. To accompany these dresses, as the other half of this unit, I will be making historical under-garments to create the silhouettes and enhance each costume. This project will give me a challenge that I might be faced with in the future as a maker. I am viewing the story as a script and the illustrations as loose designs. It is my task to look into the story and develop a context that will read through the costume and compliment the character of the Princess. One of the biggest challenges I am faced with is to make the two costumes different while retaining a quiet similarity. This will be achieved with the help of different under-garments, subtle variations in line, and a wide range of techniques. One version of the princess is in full colour with a creative use of pattern and texture. For this costume I will be focusing on using modern techniques such as, but not limited to, laser cutting, applique, flocking, and dying. The other version of the princess is in silhouette with bold contrasting patterns, but lacking depth in colour. For this costume I will be focusing on using more traditional techniques such as, but not limited to, crochet, embroidery, layering, tatting and cut-outs. Developing new techniques will give me a wider range of skills and a chance to explore surface decoration. I will also be improving my pattern making technique and increase my skill in draping on the stand.  My proficiency in budgeting and fabric sourcing will be improved further; I will be setting my own budget and updating it as I source my fabrics. To complete this project I will be creating a methodical time plan that will set manageable weekly goals and in some areas daily goals. To document my progress and discuss challenges, ideas, experimentation and continual evaluation I will be posting on my blog. Both the time plan and the blog will help me to work independently by allowing time for research and noting when the tutors are available. My goals in this project are to enrich my ability to contextually engage in a piece of work and to create a contextual explanation of my ideas through the costume and its photographs. To keep a disciplined time plan and hold myself accountable through my blog posts. Also to produce a personal sketch book of ideas and establish a professional blog to express my ideas academically. And to develop my awareness and skill in modern making techniques while remaining equally aware and developing historical techniques.

Time Plan:

National Theatre Research Visit

When planning out and researching my underwear it was suggested by a tutor to go and visit the National Theatre Hire Department to look into how they construct different types of underwear, like corsets and hoop skirts. I knew from the last project that getting to look at a garment similar to what you are making can be extremely useful. Being able to look closely, take notes and measurements is invaluable to me as a maker because I can see how it was made in a professional setting and use what I find a starting point for my own garments. The trip to London was well worth it. The staff are so friendly and I spent about 4 hours looking at different underwear in their stock.
I started with Bloomers:

 This was the first pair of bloomers I looked at. The general shape and type of fabric was what I was looking for but not the length. I was able to look at how they were finished on the inside and how the elastic was inserted.

This was the second pair of bloomers I looked at. These were very similar to the ones I wanted to make. I really liked the shaped waist-band in the front because it added some visual interest and would sit attractively on the waist. I also liked how the hem was done so there wasn't any bringing or gathering at the bottom and it was just decorated with ribbon. I took plenty of measurements on this one and looked at how it was put together. 

This was the third pair I looked at. What drew me most to this pair was the length, they were very short which is similar to my design. I also liked that it had a flat front and an elasticated back, I think this would be more practical than any type of stand with closers. I made sure to take the outside leg and inside leg measurement from these as a starting point for when I draft my patterns. 

Next I looked at Chemises:

I was a little disappointed in their selection of historical chemises. There weren't that many and most were plain. They did have a wider selection of more modern slips with modern fabrics like nylon. I looked at the cotton ones because this is what I will be making my chemise out of.

This chemise was very simple, just cotton and only a few seams; two side seams and the shoulders. I think this is the plainer version of what I am looking to make. I like the fabric and the simple trim but I am looking at making something more decorative.

I liked this chemise a lot and it reminded me of a modern summer dress. Although it isn't really at what I am looking at making it is good to see a variety of different things and I was still able to look at how it was put together and finished.

Although this isn't a long chemise I thought it would be useful to look at for the neck line. Because it is a piece of crocheted lace it is very similar in how I want to make the neck on my chemise. It was very helpful to see how it was attached and finished.

Then I looked at Corsets:

18th Century: 

I looked at these 18th Century corsets first. Although I will looking at a specific pattern and I have made a similar corset in class, it was beneficial to look at how they made theirs. Especially as to how things were finished on the inside and out.

19th Century

Looking at 19th Century corsets here was extremely helpful. I wasn't entirely sure how to put something like this together, but looking at these corsets gave me a new insight. Both of these corsets have the same shape I am trying to create, as well as, inserts at the bust and waist. Although none of them are corded like mine will be how they are finished is really important. I made sure to take lots of notes and measurements over these two corsets.

Lastly I Looked at Crinolines:
Cage: 

Here is one of cage's I found in their stock. It was the closest to what I was thinking about making although not a perfect fit. It is definitely too long but I can imagine that if there was less room between the hoops it would be closer. I really liked the extra back piece on the waistband and how it was laced up the front.

Hooped Skirts:

When looking at their large selection of hooped skirts I mostly looked for the length. I didn't feel like longer skirts would have been as helpful to look at because they need to be so large at the bottom it might be hard to visualize it smaller in the right proportions. Instead I found these two hooped skirts. The first is most likely 18th century panniers. I like all the gather stitches and how the bone extends in a casing across the front to connect it. It is certainly more of an oval than I what I was looking for but I took the bottom rung measurement as a starting point. The second hoop was very interestingly constructed. I have no idea really what it would have been used for. I like it's compact size although I think mine will be longer and I think it is a very interesting shape.

My trip to the National Theatre Hire Department was instructive and insightful. I took a ton of pictures, plenty of notes, and lots of measurements. Gaining this kind of first hand knowledge will help me make to a higher standard and allow me to work more independently on these garments.