National Theatre Research Visit

When planning out and researching my underwear it was suggested by a tutor to go and visit the National Theatre Hire Department to look into how they construct different types of underwear, like corsets and hoop skirts. I knew from the last project that getting to look at a garment similar to what you are making can be extremely useful. Being able to look closely, take notes and measurements is invaluable to me as a maker because I can see how it was made in a professional setting and use what I find a starting point for my own garments. The trip to London was well worth it. The staff are so friendly and I spent about 4 hours looking at different underwear in their stock.
I started with Bloomers:

 This was the first pair of bloomers I looked at. The general shape and type of fabric was what I was looking for but not the length. I was able to look at how they were finished on the inside and how the elastic was inserted.

This was the second pair of bloomers I looked at. These were very similar to the ones I wanted to make. I really liked the shaped waist-band in the front because it added some visual interest and would sit attractively on the waist. I also liked how the hem was done so there wasn't any bringing or gathering at the bottom and it was just decorated with ribbon. I took plenty of measurements on this one and looked at how it was put together. 

This was the third pair I looked at. What drew me most to this pair was the length, they were very short which is similar to my design. I also liked that it had a flat front and an elasticated back, I think this would be more practical than any type of stand with closers. I made sure to take the outside leg and inside leg measurement from these as a starting point for when I draft my patterns. 

Next I looked at Chemises:

I was a little disappointed in their selection of historical chemises. There weren't that many and most were plain. They did have a wider selection of more modern slips with modern fabrics like nylon. I looked at the cotton ones because this is what I will be making my chemise out of.

This chemise was very simple, just cotton and only a few seams; two side seams and the shoulders. I think this is the plainer version of what I am looking to make. I like the fabric and the simple trim but I am looking at making something more decorative.

I liked this chemise a lot and it reminded me of a modern summer dress. Although it isn't really at what I am looking at making it is good to see a variety of different things and I was still able to look at how it was put together and finished.

Although this isn't a long chemise I thought it would be useful to look at for the neck line. Because it is a piece of crocheted lace it is very similar in how I want to make the neck on my chemise. It was very helpful to see how it was attached and finished.

Then I looked at Corsets:

18th Century: 

I looked at these 18th Century corsets first. Although I will looking at a specific pattern and I have made a similar corset in class, it was beneficial to look at how they made theirs. Especially as to how things were finished on the inside and out.

19th Century

Looking at 19th Century corsets here was extremely helpful. I wasn't entirely sure how to put something like this together, but looking at these corsets gave me a new insight. Both of these corsets have the same shape I am trying to create, as well as, inserts at the bust and waist. Although none of them are corded like mine will be how they are finished is really important. I made sure to take lots of notes and measurements over these two corsets.

Lastly I Looked at Crinolines:
Cage: 

Here is one of cage's I found in their stock. It was the closest to what I was thinking about making although not a perfect fit. It is definitely too long but I can imagine that if there was less room between the hoops it would be closer. I really liked the extra back piece on the waistband and how it was laced up the front.

Hooped Skirts:

When looking at their large selection of hooped skirts I mostly looked for the length. I didn't feel like longer skirts would have been as helpful to look at because they need to be so large at the bottom it might be hard to visualize it smaller in the right proportions. Instead I found these two hooped skirts. The first is most likely 18th century panniers. I like all the gather stitches and how the bone extends in a casing across the front to connect it. It is certainly more of an oval than I what I was looking for but I took the bottom rung measurement as a starting point. The second hoop was very interestingly constructed. I have no idea really what it would have been used for. I like it's compact size although I think mine will be longer and I think it is a very interesting shape.

My trip to the National Theatre Hire Department was instructive and insightful. I took a ton of pictures, plenty of notes, and lots of measurements. Gaining this kind of first hand knowledge will help me make to a higher standard and allow me to work more independently on these garments.