Thursday, January 26, 2012

Intial Underwear Ideas

To begin my research for the underwear I really wanted to find images of actual historical underwear and go from there. The illustrations really leaves room for interpretation and for the underwear it is even more vague. I really focused looking at corsets from the 19th century since that is an era I really want to work from. And for the chemise and bloomers I looked at things I liked to fit the design, and I knew I wanted an open cage and a hoop skirt so I was able to look for those as well.

Princess Colour: 
 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1871, A/N: 2009.300.3104 a-c


When I found this corset I immediately thought about making it for Princess Colour. I like the cut-outs and I think it would be challenging but beautiful in the end. It also gives me a see-though element and it would be juxtaposed nicely with the covered hoop skirt and relate to the open cage of Princess Silhouette. It is also towards the end of the 19th century which would be more towards a modern style, just like Princess Colour.


I feel like this corset is a really good variation on the above corset. You can kind of still see the triangle insert and the bone channels are still prominent. The sturdy backing would be easier to work with and it might be better for my model who would probably feel more covered in this version. It still gives me room to play with colour and dimension but does it's simple shape make it dramatic enough?

 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1898 A/N: 2009.300.3104 a-c.

 Intially this is what I was thinking for the chemise. It is from the 20's which I thought might be a nice contrast with the 19th century corset. Considering she is a princess of Nowhere having undergarments from different eras isn't unbelievable, but I also think something thin and immensly delicate would be get completely lost under a corset and hoop skirt.


  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1920, A/N: 1970.255.3





 This second chemise is more of what I am looking for. The simple shape is great and can easily be seen but under-stated under a bold corset. I really like the scalloped neck line, although the straps might be a bit thick. This chemise is from 1910 which is more from the time of the corset.


 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1910, A/N C.I.38.29.3
  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1870, A/N: C.I.50.23.3
 When I found this chemise I knew it was just what I was looking for for Princess Colour. It is a simple yet beautiful chemise. The lace detail is particularly appealing because should it ever show under the dress it would be a decorative element rather than something that would stand out. It would obviously need to be shortened but otherwise it would be a great style and shape. It is from 1870, which also ties in with a later era corset.

 Kyoto Costume Institute (2002) Fashion: A History from 18th Century 
to 20th Century. Hong Kong: Taschen
I unfortunately didn't have much luck finding images for the hoop skirt. I think this is a decent photograph. My hoop will be much shorter and not nearly as wide as the last hoop on each. I can see the red one fitting the best if the solid part of the hoop was pulled up but these images are great for profile and to help understand the scale they were made for each person.

Princess Silhouette:

 I like the more dramatic shape of this corset. I think it works with keeping Princess Silhouette as more of a daring character. I also like the shiny silk print and the decorative lace around the top. It is however a later time than I was looking to make being from 1876 which falls more in line with the corsets I found for Princess Colour.

 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date:1876, 
              A/N: 2009.300.2723a-c
 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date:1839-41, A/N: C.I. 38.23.10b-d
This is still a 19th century corset but a bit earlier and completely different. I like the challenges this one poses, with the hip pieces and the decorative stitching. Unlike anything I've never made before it would enhance my portfolio and test my pattern making abilities. It has no see through elements so it could be paired with bloomers and contrast nicely with the open cage. I also think I could embellish it more if I wanted to like decorate the hip pieces.

 It was very easy to find many bloomers I liked. These are a very sweet with the small pattern and the ruffles at the bottom. I like the drawstring element however I think these might be a little too long for the costume over-all.

  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: Mid-19th Century, A/N: 1999.503.2






This is another pair that I think is very sweet. I like that they are shorter than the pair above and that the wide lace at the bottom is see through, adding a more risqué element. I can very easily see the pink ribbon turning into a black one and it fitting Princess Silhouette's over-all look.

 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1890's, A/N: C.I.40.123.6
  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1870's, A/N: C.I. 50.23.3
 This is my favourite pair of bloomers. I think there is a very whimsical element to them. The lightness of the fabric is very evident which is similar to the fabric I will use. I like the silky ribbons on the bottom and as the draw-string. I think the element of the lace at the bottom is what really attracts me. Again the lace cuff is a little risqué but the fact that is is almost climbing up the leg makes it daring, something Princess Silhouette most certainly would be with her underwear. 

 This is a great example of the open cage I want to make. It is a lovely shape and sits on the waist. I also think the length is really important and this one is correct. It may have few more hoops than I was looking to put in but it a great historical example.

 From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1857, A/N: C.I.53.72.15

  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Date: 1858, A/N: C.I. 45.79.10
 These two hoops are spot on to what I want to make. The amount of hoops and the length is really great. I think it really produces the shape I am looking forward. I also like how industrial it looks which I think will definitely add character. It is a great garment to aspire to make and is unlike anything I have ever made so it will most certainly be a challenge.

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