Initial Research: Gathering Ideas

When I began my research I was really focused on getting some ideas. I know that I really would like to do two corsets and two under-structures; however they also have to create the silhouette from the illustration. I will not be making two identical sets of underwear for each girl. This is one half of my EMP and I want it to stretch my knowledge of construction and challenge me in design and finish. This is also a chance for me to really develop a range and expand my portfolio which is a consideration when making these decisions. When looking through silhouettes I found two kind of eras that have a similar shape to what I am looking for: about 1780-90 and 1835-50. I like that these are from two different centuries and obviously very different in fabric and some styling but I can see the similarities in how the waists are defined.

The 1780-90:

Arnold, J. (1964). Patterns of Fashion I: English Women's Dresses and 

Their Construction C. 1660-1860. Great Britain: MacMillan Publishers Ltd.

Kyoto Costume Institute. (2002). Fashion, A History From the 18^th 

Century to the 20^th Century: Volume II: the 20^th Century. China: Taschen.

 Kyoto Costume Institute. (2002). Fashion, A History From the 18^th 

Century to the 20^th Century: Volume II: the 20^th Century. China: Taschen.

Gainsborough, T. Mr and Mrs. William Hallett (‘The Morning Walk’). (1785). [Online Image]. Available at:

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/thomas-gainsborough-mr-and-mrs-william-hallett-the-morning-walk.

[Accessed on January 18^th, 2012].

I've always really enjoyed this kind of shift right at the end of the 18th century. Before this the silhouette extended to the side with the help of paniers but here it begins to shift to a softer, although still exaggerated, shape all around. Following this, and in great contrast, was the more natural silhouette of the Regency era. I think this silhouette easily fits in with the Princess because it is more full at the hips with a slim waist and an up-lifted bust. I also think these images are great references because they are often made of light fabrics, and remain looking soft which is something I want to try and capture in my costume. At this time there was a lot of padding with petticoats and sometime small padded pillows. I'm looking more into making cages for the under-structures so this might not be a period I use for the underwear. However when it comes to draping the actual dresses these could be excellent reference for seam lines and style lines.


The 1835-50:

Arnold, J. (1964). Patterns of Fashion I: English Women's Dresses and 

Their Construction C. 1660-1860. Great Britain: MacMillan Publishers Ltd.

Arnold, J. (1964). Patterns of Fashion I: English Women's Dresses and 

Their Construction C. 1660-1860. Great Britain: MacMillan Publishers Ltd.

Kyoto Costume Institute. (2002). Fashion, A History From the 18^th  

Century to the 20^th Century: Volume II: the 20^th Century. China: Taschen.

Still from The Young Victoria. (2009). [Online Image]. Available from: 

http://www.imdb.com/media/rm2810350336/tt0962736. [Accessed January 18^th 2012].

This little grouping shows a range from about 1835 to 1850. It shows many slight variations in style that really influenced the time. All of these looks are more than likely supported by petticoats again but could easily be seen with a hoop underneath. The silhouette for the Princess is easily seen in this period as well. Sometimes the waists can be a little high, like in the still from The Young Victoria, however it can also sit a little lower on the hip like the green dress above. I also like how young and playful I feel the costumes from this time look. I think it holds a sense of whimsy with just a little glimpse of the shoes. As according to the illustration my costumes will be shorter than this. I also think looking for a corset from around this time would be good, because I've never made a 19th century corset and could add a new range to my portfolio. This is another silhouette that would give me some good ideas for seams and design lines.