Breeches

 

From: Ribeiro, P.(1986). A Visual History of Costume: The Eighteenth
Century. London, BT Bratsford Ltd.

I think this a very good image for researching breeches. From the figure on the left it is easy to see the buttons and the decoration at the knee band. The length is very clear (buckled below the knee) on both standing and sitting figures. In the book A Visual History of Costume: The Eighteenth Century, where the image was found, it describes the items as having "a frock and matching waistcoat with different coloured breeches". For the National Theater Hire Department the breeches and the waistcoat will be made from the same fabric.

"Richard Humphreys, The Boxer" by: John Hoppner ( 1758-1810)
Found on the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website, Accession Number: 53.113

Although this is just a close up from a larger painting, I feel like it is a lucky find. It really shows the front of the breeches which is usually covered up by the waistcoat or a shirt or if the subject is sitting. There wasn't an exact date of when this was painted but given the artists year of birth it can be assumed it was the later part of the 18th century. This would fit in correctly with the estimated time of the breeches we are making. This is also an interesting look into what could be called "sports wear". Even if he is simply posing for the picture the idea of boxing in wool or cotton breeches, stockings, and fancy shoes is quite a feat!

From: Cassin-Scott, J. (1976). Costume and Fashion in Colour 1760-1920. 
Poole, Blandford Press.

This is a wonderful image found tucked away in a small colourful book. It is a great comparison for both coats and breeches but I'm mostly concerned with the breeches. In only a matter of 26 years the breeches change, I think, rather significantly. They grow in length and lessen in the detail on the full front. Neither of these two images are exactly the type of breeches we are making; but elements from each are used. The small welted pocket on the 1764 breeches is an element that appears on our design. However the length, full front, and knee-bands on the 1790 pair are more similar to our pair. It could be said that perhaps our pair fall directly in-between these two examples, maybe 1775 or 1782, but I think it would be logical to assume they are a mix of historical accuracy and modern necessity. The way modern garments are worn today and how they were worn then is very different. The practicality of movement for the actors and performers needs to be considered as well; which is why it is difficult to pinpoint the exact time in history our breeches fit into.

Both images are from: Waugh, N. (1964). The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900. London, Theater Arts Books.

These two breeches patterns are also a good example of how different the design for breeches could be in only a matter of years. The image on the left is of a pair of breeches from 1760-65 and the pattern on the right from a pair in 1775. It is clear to see the difference in length in the leg and the shape of the knee and knee-bands. The waist-band patterns are also very different in shape. It is a good example of how quickly fashion can change and how important it can be to know around the time (almost down to the year) of the performance. For our project it is more important, since we are making costumes for a hire department, that they be a versatile shape so they can be used for a wide range of performances. 

The breeches for the National Theatre have many interesting elements to them. They are of a later military style since they are not so full in the back and extend (presumably) below the knee. They also have two pockets, a small change pocket (welted) on the waistband and a more hidden pocket invisible since it matches with the waist-band seam. It has a knee band with buttons and has a full front with metal buttons on the waist-band and flat buttons on the inside flap. All these elements are important features to consider when making them. Knowing the order of how things are put together is one key skill that is most certainly being improved with this project. Research is also important when considering the making of these breeches. Through paintings and patterns we can see how they have developed throughout history, when they were popular, and how they were worn. It adds an extra feeling of accomplishment when making them. Even though there have been some changes to fit their modern purpose research is absolutely key to understanding what we are making.