Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Pin-tuck Blouse

Hunnisett, J. (1988). Period Costume for Stage and Screen:  Patterns
for Women's Dress 1800-1909
. London, Unwin Hyman Lmt.
The blouse in the above image is probably the closest image to the blouse that I am making for the National Theatre Hire Department. The detailing on the front is very similar, like the rows of lace, gathered sleeves, and embellished cuffs. The biggest difference would be the back; in this image it is far more decorated with pin-tucks than mine will be. In the opposing page (not shown here) it describes the blouse as "Cream silk blouse, with lace insertion" this is a contrast to mine which will be made out of cotton and lace. The date for this blouse is 1905-12 although it states at the bottom that blouses have been worn since about the 1860's.
A close up from John Singer Sargent's: Mr. and Mrs. I.N. Phelps Stokes
located in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
I think this painting is a great example of a an early 1900's blouse. It has some decoration on the front which I like to think are pin tucks (like my blouse) but it could be some kind of lace or even just the fabric itself. Unlike the blouse I will be making this one buttons down the front and appears to have a contrasting white high collar. But I think the way it is worn is a good example of it's comfortable more relaxed use.

Still of Kate Winslet from the film Finding Neverland
I really couldn't resist pulling a still from Finding Neverland of Kate Winslet in one of her stunning costumes designed by Alexandra Byrne. Her character is often in blouses and skirts, although there is almost certainly still a corset underneath. It also fits well in the timeline of the first image for the film is set around 1904. I find this style so elegant yet not completely un-relatable. Wearing separates is common and simple to us but it is nice to see them in a more elegant and somewhat more formal look. The blouse is completely beautiful and drapes effortlessly. In contrast to my blouse it has a V neck line and buttons in the front. It is not as elaborate as mine will be with just a few tucks and little buttons to decorate the front.  Simple and Stunning. 
 I have found researching the blouse one of the most difficult parts of research so far. It is less clear to pin-point on a time line because, from what I've seen, pin-tucks aren't specific to any time nor is the shape, cut or trim. And a blouse like that is worn for many years in history and not just one century. Which is also why it is a good piece to have in a hire department. It is a piece that can be used for many different types of productions for many different characters. I feel like researching this blouse will be an ever evolving search, this is only be the beginning!

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