Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Final Patterns

These are the final patterns I will be drafting for each of my garments: 

Shep, R.L. (1998). The Great War: Styles and Patterns of the 1910’s. California: R.L. Shep Productions.
This is a trouser pattern that is not a military pattern but is a pattern from that time. It is a useful base that will be easy to manipulate to create the shape for the trousers. I will be adding a more pronounced fish-tail back and will be making it more narrow at the hem. I will also be adding some more volume at the top and then working it back in around the knee to create volume at the top but not bulk where the putties will be wrapped.
Cariou, G. Shep, R.L. (1999). Shirts and Men’s Haberdashery: 1840-1920’s. California: R.L. Shep Productions.
This is the final shirt pattern that has been chosen. I will be making it directly from the directions and making any style lines or design alterations at the first fitting.

Waistcoat Block from Defining Practice. 
As I am making a tailored waistcoat for the Narrator I am using the block instructions for the Defining Practice Unit. I will be making some style alterations. There will only be two pockets total, the neck will sit a bit higher and the bottom will be slightly shallower and less pronounced. I also have a few alterations to do with the actor, as well. After talking to Anushka (whom is making the rest of the suit) he seems to have a longer torso than is usual. To err on the side of caution I will be adding more length from the waist-line to the hem line and adding an extra 5cm of seam allowance to the bottom. Adding that much seam allowance is unusual in tailoring but this will just be for the first fitting to gauge the correct length. Since I will be making up the backs out of the final fabric, Silesia, it will be easier to take in than to let out if the hem from my pattern is too short.

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