Sunday, April 3, 2011

Waistcoat Progress



This is the very beginning of my waistcoat and sort of reflection for the beginning of this garment. The process for this waistcoat seems to be somewhere between making a tailored waistcoat and more costume sewing. The main differences being the amount of seam allowance (on a tailored waistcoat has very little on this it is more to allow for any alterations), the pockets ( welted pockets for tailoring and a simpler cash pocket with flap for this waistcoat), and the back detail (on the tailored waistcoat it was a strap with a buckle on ours it is an eye-litted jigger). But one of the most useful techniques from tailoring is the precise and careful assembly of each piece, which I am trying to carry-over into this waistcoat. And that includes securing slip stitching threads and lightly pulling stab stitching threads, something carried over from the breeches. So far I have completed the pockets on the front as well as the facing and putting in cotton tape around the arm-hole. The cotton tape, something not used in tailoring, is to prevent too much stretching in the armhole. Something that will be key in prolonging the life of this theatrical waistcoat, but something I hadn't considered doing before. It is useful in a waistcoat because it has no sleeves (which would otherwise prevent it from stretching) so it is a process that could be carried over into any garment made without sleeves that runs the risk of stretching. Like I found tailoring earlier in the year I don't think the processes for the waistcoat are radical or hard to understand but they must be done with precision and focus in order to look well made and correct. Things like the cotton tape, canvas, and stayflex (around the pocket mouth) will ensure that this waistcoat stay shapely throughout many a production.

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