Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Trouser Pockets

Once the button fly was complete I was ready to put in the pockets. I've never put in a side entry pocket before so it was a new process. I have put in pockets into dresses and skirts when I've made them in the past but that hasn't been for a costume class so I wanted to make sure I did it correctly. Luckily I had a few references to look at. My friend Mary supplied me with the instructions below which she received from a tutor on the last unit while she was making a suit. This was really helpful for seeing how the pattern pieces should look drawn out. And I was able to look at the measurements from there and then put in my own measurements. I also had the first hand knowledge I gained at History in the Making. I took and recorded the measurements from their pockets and that is where I took my measurements for length and for width, as well as the size of the pocket opening. 

Diagram from Mary

From my trip to History in the Making


Once I had completed calculating my own measurements it was time to cut out the pockets. I was able to use the white fabric of the shirt  which worked well and matched what they used in History in the Making. Getting to look at the pockets in a finished costume was so helpful that I was able to put the pocket together with relative ease. It took me a little while to get the french seams perfect but I managed in the end and was happy with the result. It was also very easy to put small pieces of facing in that were a little longer than the actual pocket opening is.  




Put together pocket

Put together pocket showing lining
Once I had put the pockets together it was time to sew them in. I did find this part challenging. The fabric of the trousers is very thick and sometimes hard to move around or get into the right place. But I was able to draw on the previous experience in dress making to complete the pocket and sew up the side seams as well. When I finished I tacked the pockets at the waist so they sit towards the front and gave everything a good press.

Finished Pocket
Evaluation: I am very pleased with how the pockets turned out. I feel like I really drew on the knowledge I had from previous lessons and personal experience. I am also happy I was able to take so much information from my History In The Making visit that I could construct the pocket mostly with that information. The only real problem with the pocket was that on the one side the pocket extended over the button fly and really it should sit under the over-locking. I talked to my tutor about that and we were able to just turn the fabric in a little and machine it together so it was smaller. I am very pleased with the side concealed pocket.

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