Waistcoat Pocket Samples

Welted Pocket Sample

Welted Pocket Sample close

Due to the fabric chosen for the waistcoat I am anxious to begin my waistcoat. The strong checked pattern I know will be challenging to match up and keep looking clean, that is why I decided to try a sample welted pocket before beginning the two on the actual waistcoat. I cut out my fabric base using my actual waistcoat pattern (from the hem to a few inches above the waist-line) so it would as similar as it could be to the actual waistcoat. I used my hand-outs and notes from the Defining Practice unit last year when we made tailored waistcoats. It was very difficult to match up the lines and stripes but I am happy with the final result. Since this was also a sample I took the opportunity to try a different way to finish off the ends of the waistcoat. It is a bit easier to see in the second image. On the right is how we were taught in DP, although I would now fold over the ends and then top-stitch down. On the left instead I folded in the ends of the welt and slip-stitched it to the waistcoat. I will need to talk with a tutor with the sample to see which they feel would be more successful, however I think the way on the left is a bit neater and looks more finished.

Evaluation: Creating a sample before beginning the actual pockets was worth the time. Since I haven't worked with the fabric before I was able to learn more of how it worked and moved. I also realized that the pocket mouth I had tacked in and drawn on my pattern was proportionally small. I also think the welt is a bit too wide, and when I showed my sample to Rose she agreed that it might be a bit wide. I conferred with her and my historical research and we decided on a smaller width. I was able to talk to my tutor about finishing the ends of the pockets and she agreed the slip-stitching was neater but had concerns that it wouldn't be strong enough. But after discussing it we decided that with a machine top-stitch over top and close the end would secure it enough. This pocket sample was a chance for me to remember the how to make a welted pocket the tailored way, to work with the fabric, and solidify the length and width of the welt.