Above are images before alterations
Today I had my toile fitting for Princess Colour's top dress. I was
pleased with how it went and I feel like although there are many changes
they aren't things I wasn't expecting. There were a few fit issues I
noticed on the mannequin when it was being draped but I wanted to wait
til the fitting to really see if they translated the same on my model.
Just like on the mannequin it was a little big and has mostly been taken
in at the centre back. I've also added a few more bones to make it
really stay smooth. There were more changes on the design side of things
rather than the fit. Looking at the illustration again we made the neck
line a bit more shallow, recognizing that it was a lot higher than I
had cut it. It's still a little lower than in the illustration but by
adding lace it will raise it a bit more to really fit. The centre front
piece has also been made a bit smaller to better fit my model. The
sleeves were another area with a few alterations. Although it wasn't too
tight I decided to make the arm-hole a little bigger just for more ease
and comfort. As well as making it a bit shorter as it was a little too
long. But I was pleased with the size and overall shape. I think the
skirt was a great success. I think it will really come alive when it is
made out all my different types of fabric. The underskirt seemed to work
really well, however my tutor did bring up maybe making a yoke for the
underskirt if the pleating adds too much bulk. This will be something to
take into consideration because even though my fabric is light I still
don't want it to be weighed down in any way.
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Side view of shortened sleeve, added bone, and changed design lines |
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Centre Back View with Alterations |
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Front View for Changed Seam Line and New Neck Line |
Evaluation:
I think this was a very positive fitting. It was my first fitting using a toile I'd draped. I think it did have problems in a few fit areas and design lines but over-all these alterations will be easy to fix on my pattern. In some ways it was difficult to look at this toile during the fitting as a designer and a maker. I think I had to look first at the fit from a maker's perspective and then look at it from the design perspective. I think I could have looked more at my design while I was draping, because the neck-line was a lot lower than it should have been. This is an important thing to realize now because I think I was looking a lot at the historical research more than the design and really should have been an even mix between design and historical research. But I am really pleased with how the skirt looks. I wasn't sure if having even half a skirt for the toile would really be worth the time and fabric but it certainly was. I think going into top fabric I'll be a lot more confident and experimental.
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Front View after Alterations |
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Side View After Alterations |
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Back View After Alterations |
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