Bias Binding on 18th Century Corset

One of the very last steps to completing the 18th century corset for Princess Silhouette. This proved to be a bit more challenging than expected. Putting the bias binding on the neck-line and shoulder straps was very straight forward; but the the tabs were a new experience. When I had made an 18th century corset in my second year I had machined the bias binding on in a continual line the entire way around the bottom, then folded over and slip-stitched it. I thought originally it might be nice to have strong points at the top of the tabs as a design feature. I did two samples to try two different ideas:

 

First I used two separate strips of bias binding and machined on the top side up to the points and leave a little extra to fold over. Then I hand-sewed them together and finished sewing them down and slip stitched it to the underside. (see bottom image for finished sample it is the top sample).

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Then I tried the way I was more used to where I used one continuous piece of bias binding and completely machined it on and was very careful at the point when I turned the needle and the binding. This went a little faster than the sample above and I thought I wouldn't be able to make a nice sharp point but I was surprised. It was easier to turn and easier to create the points so I felt like this was the method I would be using

 

 The two finished samples for comparison. The top is the one with two pieces of bias binding and the second is with one. 

The Final Result:

After all my alterations after the second fitting there had been some alterations with the tabs. For example the two front side tabs were combined on each side, and they were all shortened. These weren't huge changes but they did affect me as I began to sew on the tabs. As I had found with other machine sewing I had done, the combination of the bones and the machine were not a happy combination. It was very difficult to maneuver around, especially sharp turns.It became clear after my first attempts that using one continuous piece of bias binding was not going to be easy. Through many little trials I had to settle. I had all my bias binding pinned on as one big piece. I didn't want to un-pin all of this but I couldn't sew into the points in turn. However I didn't see hand sewing all of it on as an option. I needed to get this done and not waste time. So I machined around the tabs as far as I could to the point and then stopped. And then got in as close as I could on the next side by the point and machined around. I thought it would be easy to go in after and hand-sew the rest of the points down and then fold under. However what I discovered was that I had excess bias binding at some of the points. What I probably could have done instead was to not pin down the bias binding, sew up close to the point, hand sew the point as I turned the binding, and then continued on machine sewing. In the end my solution was to cut the bias binding a the points if it was too much and then carefully make a small seam and hand-sew that trimming the excess, then hand sewing it down at the points folding and then slip-stitching. In the end I think it looks good for all the issues I encountered. This has definitely been a learning experience in taking my time even if I'm feeling pressed with time and problem solving; but I am happy with the final results. 

Finished centre front of corset