Before I start draping and pattern my dress for Princess Silhouette I needed to do some research to get the correct shape. Since the corset was 18th century I started there. But I had to be careful to really find what I want, a sack-back dress isn't going to be helpful in developing the silhouette and shape because my costume doesn't have a sack back. By looking more towards the end of the era and that kind of style I was able to find some good images.
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| Hayman, F. (1741-42) The Milkmaid's Garland, or Humours of May Day. London, British Galleries, Room 52F. |
I think this painting is a really fun image that shows a light-heartedness I'd like to have in my costume. The silhouettes of the dancing girls are particularly close to what I want to achieve on my costume. The neck line on the one facing front isn't really what I am looking to do but it could give me a few ideas for different pieces. I also like how the sleeves are set into the bodice, with a nice poof.
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| Kyoto Costume Institute. (2002) Fashion: A History from the 18th Century to 20th Century. Hong Kong: Taschen. |
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This image is one of the first ones I thought of when I was considering Princess Silhouette's bodice shape. It stood out to me in the book because of it's simplicity (for the time) and the length and shape of the skirt. This is a great example of what I am looking for in the bodice shape, although it isn't exactly what I want.
All My Favourites:
This is the collage of all my silhouette ideas for Princess Silhouette's Dress. I think these are all strong images that combine everything I am looking for, especially the shape of the bodice. The top two images starting at the left are both stills from the film:
Marie Antoinette. The one farthest left is one I am particularly drawn to in terms of fit and cut. The shape of bodice with it smooth in the front is exactly what I want to do. The decoration is also something I am drawn to and although I may not use it on the bodice it is a good idea to catalogue for use somewhere else on the dress. But both these images from the film are particularly good for the shape of the neckline. It is a bit low, which I feel is okay for the more daring Princess Silhouette, and also feels very grounded historically. The third image towards the top right is a lovely image of the silhouette I want to achieve from the side. Luckily the corset will do most of the work and my bodice will just have to follow that shape. I also think the trim that goes at a diagonal from the centre front to the back is a good idea for decoration on the bodice, creating strong lines. The centre image is of a pattern from the end of the 18th century and a lucky find. It is pretty much exactly what I am looking to create, including the neck-line. Even though it has a rather large neck decoration I think it is clear enough for me to really gain some patterning information. The bottom left painting is a Gainsborough and although it isn't exactly clear on the pattern the general silhouette is what I want to create and I think the lightness it evokes is something I want to put into my work. The last image on the bottom right is a film still from
The Duchess. It is a great image for gathering pattern information on the back of the bodice.
Above Image:
Top Left and Top Centre: Coppola, S. (2006) Marie Antoinette. [Digital Video Disc]. USA: Columbia
Pictures Corporation.
Top Right: Kyoto Costume Institute. (2002) Fashion: A History from the 18th Century to 20th
Century. Hong Kong: Taschen.
Centre: Arnold, J. (1964) Patterns of Fashion I: English Women's Dresses and Their Construction C.
1660-1860. Great Britain: MacMillan Publishers Ltd.
Bottom Left: Gainsborough, T. Mr. and Mrs. William Hallet ('The Morning Walk'). (1785) [Online
Image] Available from: http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/thomas-gainsborough-
mr-and mrs-william-hallett-the-morning-walk. [Accessed 27 February 2012].
Bottom Right: Dibb, S. (2008) The Duchess. [Digital Video Disc]. United Kingdom, Paramount Vantage.
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