Creating Hoop Skirt

To create my second hoop (a hoop skirt) I am using a combination of research (first and second hand) and insights from making the open cage. My research is a combination of book research and notes from my visit to the National Theatre Hire Department. I've also looked at a tutors pocket hoops for techniques for working in organza. I've decided to make this hoop the same size as the open cage in width. I think keeping them the same size will help create a commonality between the two looks. Again I do a rough sketch and plan for each aspect of the hoop and how it will be worn before I start (see below). I had originally planned on cutting strips of organza and sewing them together to make the hoop but after looking at research I have decided instead to just cut a rectangle the size of the last hoop (plus seam allowance and a little give) and just gather it into a waistband. I've also decided to make my casing out of organza as well and this is where I start. Once I begin to cut my rectangle and then my casing I discover that organza is more difficult to work with than I thought. It doesn't hold chalk marks very well and it moves easily. To help make the casings easier to iron, I make a paper strip that is the finished width I am looking for and place it in the centre of the casings and fold over the edges around the paper to get the correct size.( See image below)

Sketch

Ironing Casing

I would say this technique half worked. It did make it easier to get the correct size but it didn't ensure that the edges would be perfectly straight or that the organza might stretch a little when ironed. After the casings were pressed I tacked where I wanted them to be placed on the rectangle. I normally would have just carefully drawn them in but since it is hard to mark on organza tacking was a clearer marking. But before I put the casings on I french-seamed the centre back seam. This way the casings would go over the seam and therefore the hooping as well, allowing there to only be one join in the hooping. Then I placed the casings on and straight stitched them But before gathering into the waistband I needed to put an opening in so that it can be put over the head. I did a little sample of this first. (see below)

Back Opening Sample

Once I felt confident in creating this I cut down the centre back of the hoop and made a little stand for the opening. Then I just added the waistband. One of the challenges in making an organza hoop is finishing off all seams and making it look neat. I was able to create the hem easily enough by incorporating it into the bottom casing. However at the waistband I made sure to zig-zag the gathers on the rectangle so they wouldn't fray as much and look sloppy.

Hoop shell

Here is the finished skirt without any hooping in it. I like how modern it looks just like that, it is encouraging to see since I am going for a more modern look with this hoop. Then it was time to put the structure in to create the hoop. I decided on using another product from Vena Cava called TripleFlex. It is a tri-fold plastic boning. It was recommended by my tutor who also used it in her organza pocket hoops. But I also ordered a sample first to see if it would be strong enough. I think it is a really great material to use for this type of structure. It is very light-weight but still maintains its shape and is almost clear so it won't be noticeable through the organza. As an added bonus I can even cut it with strong scissors and it is also very reasonably priced. I had my hoop measurements from the cage hoop and for the bottom three hoops it was easy to get the right size. However it was rather difficult getting the plastic to join together. I thought (from off the website) it could be joined with just tape but this doesn't seem to be holding it together very well. And then getting the top two hoops the right size is a whole other challenge. I first (implusively) cut them the length of the finished hooping on the open cage. But this hoop comes closer together than the open cage and therefore it needs to be longer than that. I try it with the original scaling down but it still seems a little off. I finally get two lengths that I feel are the right length. It sits a bit wonky and I can't tell if that is the distribution of the gathers or the actual length of the boning. I think it will take the first fitting to work out some of the problems.

Initial hoop lengths

Before Fitting

Before Fitting

Evaluation:

I would say that between the two hoops skirts this was the more difficult one to make and I wasn't expecting that to be the case. I really found the fabric difficult to work with and I think my lack of experience working with silk organza affected the entire process. Ultimately I am neither pleased or displeased with it's outcome but rather anxious to see it in a fitting. I think it will look better on a body and in combination with the other undergarments. I also think I have more finishing to do on this one to make it really be a solid undergarment. I did learn a lot about working with this type of fabric which will come in handy as I will be using organza on the top dress as well.