Creating the Open Cage

 To begin the open cage I had a few references to look at. First I had the great images I found on the Metropolitan Museum of Art's website and I also had the research I did at the National Theatre Hire Department. I used a combination of both those resources to make up my measurements. Below is the sketch I did on the day I started just to get my thoughts down on paper and have plan to follow. Along with deciding on the width of the hoops I had to decide on the width of the strips that would hold them together. I found these two different width peter-sham strips in the studio (one to be later used in the waistband) and did a test (below) to see which width would be more aesthetically pleasing. I ultimately decided on something in between these two widths.

Once I had my general plan I first started with the waist band and the strips. I tried to really reinforce each piece so that it would be strong and supportive. I made the waistband with peter-sham following the instructions from Fundamental Studies. For the strips I cut 12 strips, over-locked the edges of each, and put stay-flex (the width of the finished strips) on the wrong side of 6 of them. I folded over and ironed the over-locked edges on each strip. Then placed two strips together, marked where each hoop opening would be, and sewn to each pin, left a little opening, and continued to the next pin til all 5 ring openings were complete. I had planned out the waistband size and the distribution of the strips around the waistband.

I first attached the strips on just based on my diagram. When I put what I had made on the mannequin padded to my model's size I realized I should make sure this could still be proportional to a smaller waist since it would be worn over the corset, which will make the waist smaller. So I moved the front two strips more towards the sides than the front. This was a good lesson in learning to think about how it will be worn in conjunction with other garments.To continue from there I began to start the wire. I purchased some Narrow Gauge Steel Hooping from an amazing website: Vena Cava (http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/). I decided on this material after reading about it on their website and ordering a small sample. I liked it's lightweight quality but that it still had strength. It also seemed very user friendly with brass joints available to order and a very reasonable price. I had already decided on my bottom hoop measurement with the help of research and cut that piece first just to gauge the size. I liked the width for the bottom piece and scaled down evenly from there to get the other hoop measurements. Once I got to the top two I had to reconsider the measurement. Because it has an opening the hoop will be missing the front section, therefore I could not cut it to the measurement planned. I still started with a piece that was the original size planned and then cut it down to fit just the back half while still keeping the correct shape. Once all the wires were the right size I loosely joined them with the brass joints but didn't clamp down on them til I can have my first fitting to be sure I am pleased with the size and proportion.

I also decided to add a lacing to the front of the hoop to connect the front two strips. I came across this idea while researching different historical hoops. It is used to keep the balance of the hoop and so that the front two strips do not bend out, preventing a smooth shape in the front. I also think it adds an extra element to the look of the hoop that I think works with this daring character.

Evaluation:
I am very pleased with this foray into hoop making. I was apprehensive about starting since I've never made an understructure like this before. But having  first hand and second hand research really gave me the ability to make educated decisions within the experiment of creating this hoop. I learned that when making understructures it is important to really consider many factors before beginning. Not just the size of the hoops to how it'll fit the design but also what it will be worn with and how it will support the fabric. I think I was able to consider most factors in this creation but after making this I will be able to feel more confident in making the second hoop.